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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.